05/15/2025
2025 Pine Point Chain Compact Rules!
FWD&RWD Midsize- Any American made car can run with the following exceptions; all
vehicles must be, 6 cylinder or less, and under 112”wheelbase for front wheel drive cars RWD
cars 108’’ wheelbase If you are unsure about vehicle being eligible for class, ask.
❖ Frame
➢ Seam Welding-
• Absolutely no seam welding is allowed, on frame or body.
➢ Shortening-
▪ You may shorten the front most part of the frame rails only. You may cut the frame off the
crush zone flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. The front frame must not be
shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. If you remove
the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run.
➢ Frame Shaping-
▪ No frame shaping anywhere on frame.
➢ Frame Repair-
▪ Pre-ran vehicles will be allowed (4) 5x5x3/16” plates, these plates can only be on one side of
the frame. There must be
a 1” gap between fix it plates. We need to see a proof of bend to warranty the plate.
➢ Bumper
Option #1: Any seam welded OEM bumper may be ran as long as it has
an unmodified skin front and back. It may be loaded, but all added
material must remain inside the bumper.
Option #2: Homemade bumpers may be used as long as it falls under all
of the following dimensions. The bumper may be built up to have a 14”
point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the
point, however the point itself may be no more than a factory Chrysler
pointy itself and spanning over a 36” span across the bumper. (Will have
a cut out template to follow.) They may be 8” tall unless loading an
unaltered factory skin.
▪ Front and rear bumpers may have (2) spots of #9 wire (4 loops) from radiator support/trunk lid
or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame).
➢ Bumper Height-
▪ Cannot exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper/frame from the ground and it must be a
minimum of 14” from the
ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame in the rear, whichever is lower. Rear rails cannot be
higher than 21” at
start of event!
➢ Bumper Brackets- You get 2 choices, pick 1 or the other, not both! Absolutely nothing inside
of the frame this means no square tubing,plates,etc. everything must be on the outside! If found
this rule to be violated you’ll be subject to load your car!
▪ Any compact bumper shock may be used. No more than one set of shocks may be used.
Welding of shocks to
the bracket is allowed in the factory position. Shock must be stock with bracket. Brackets cannot
go any further back than the very front most part of your front suspension(so this would be the
control arm on most vehicles) No manufactured brackets/replica brackets may be used. No
loaded bumper shocks.
OR
▪ You can use (1) 5” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down the frame and
cannot extend any further back than 12” from the front of frame. This bracket cannot be on more
than one side of frame. You can wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L”
shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Do not abuse this
rule YOU WILL CUT.
➢ Rear Frame Rails-
▪ Notching/Dimpling is allowed, pre-bending rear frame rails is allowed. You cannot weld your
notches back together.
❖ Body
➢ No other seams may be welded other then what is outlined in these rules! Absolutely no
exceptions.
➢ Doors-
▪ You may weld your doors with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” plates solid around the door
seams . It must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. If you
chose not to weld the doors, they must be tied shut in six locations using 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If
we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
▪ You can add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. Drivers Door bracing must not
stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also
allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior driver door seam either forward or
backward. Door sheeting may be up 1⁄4” thick. It is highly recommended that you add this
additional bracing for your safety!
▪ Doors can be welded along the top (where the window comes through), to connect door sheet
metal, pound over and weld no added material.
➢ Shaping-
▪ Body lines/shaping may be pounded on outside of car, no shaping other parts of car (firewall,
transmission tunnel, etc.)
Any shaping of these areas will result in a load situation.
▪ Body cannot be pounded over and welded or bolted
➢ Sub Frame Mounts-
▪ Bolts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts, sub-frame can be sucked up tight, or mounts can be
replaced with steel
spacers or washers but must be the same diameter as stock spacers. Body spacers can be welded
to the frame in 2 spots, 1⁄2” long weld each, this is to keep them from moving. Bolts may extend
through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top. Do not weld
body bolt washers to the body.
▪ Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory. If you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks
you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck.
▪ Absolutely no subframe mounts may be moved unless otherwise specified, do not shorten the
front of your car past the sub-frame mount hole as your car will not run. You can nut the allthread on the bottom of the core support mount.
You will be allowed 2 extra body mounts 1 inch allthread and
14 inchs long.
a. Only 3 inchs may be welded to sub frames
➢ #9 Wire in Window Openings-
▪ Absolutely no #9 wire is allowed in this class.
➢ Hoods and Front Clips-
▪ Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be
bolted back together with (12) 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer to pinch the hood
sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts.
▪ You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots.
You may have up to 1” t-rod our front 2 rods must go through core support mount/front subframe mount. You may have 2 rods that can weld to frame, these must stay completely vertical,
no added material, no bending the rod to weld more or make a gusset! The other 2 connections
must be sheet metal to sheet metal only.
▪ If not using threaded rod for the back (4) mounts, chain (3/8” max) 9 wire (4 strands) or angle
iron (6” long, 2” x 2”, 1⁄4” material welded to hood and fenders with (2) 1/2” bolt through it) is
allowed, 4 connections max.
▪ All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have washers for hood tie
down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. These cannot be welded to the hood.
➢ Core Supports-
▪ Core supports must be factory to the car you are running.
▪ Core support must go in the factory location, no sliding forward or backwards. It must line up
with the stock boltholes, you may use the factory bolts and bolt holes to attach core support to
fenders. No other material may be added to attach the core support to the fender unless otherwise
noted.
▪ If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed (6) 3/8”
bolts and 1.25” diameter washers to bolt back to the core support per fender.
▪ Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid.
➢ Sheet Metal Rust Repair-
▪ DO NOT cut any sheet metal you are repairing out. Sheet metal must be same thickness as
body, repair sheet metalmust remain flat, no forming or rolling plate to add strength. This metal
can exceed 2” past rusty metal.
➢ Trunks-
▪ You can fold trunk lid over. Do not slide your trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on
hinges.
▪ Trunk lids must have at least two 6” inch holes or one 12” hole cut in the first 60% of the trunk
lid (holes in trunk floor
will not count) for inspection purposes, inspection hole may have (4) 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25”
diameter washers bolting the two layers back together.
▪ Trunk seams can be welded solid with 3” wide 1/8” thick strapping.
▪ Your trunk lid may be V’D or canoed in the center, but the drip rail must remain at least 10” off
the trunk floor. The 10”
will be measured from the top of the frame rails not the spare tire hole. You cannot attach the
trunk lid to the floor in any way
▪ (2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan. If welding to frame rod
must be welded vertically
and no more than 4” of weld. Threaded rod must pass through trunk lid and not through fender.
▪ If not welding, chain (3/8” max) 9 wire (4 strands) or angle iron (4” long, 2” x 2”, 1⁄4” material
welded to hood and fenders with (1) 1/2” bolt through it) is allowed, (8) connections max to bind
the seams.
➢ Rear Window Bar-
▪ You are allowed a rear window bar which may not be any larger than 2x2x1/4” square tubing
or 3”x1⁄2” flat strapping.This bar must be centered in the car and can only extend on the rearmost part of the roof for 6”, this 6” will be measured from the rear window opening. The bar
must be in contact with the front trunk seam and can only extend 6” on the trunk/speaker deck
and must stay on top of trunk sheet metal. Do not attach or butt up to the roof sign/roof sign
mount/ halo.
➢ Front Window Bars-
▪ All cars must have something in the front window opening, chain/9 wire/ plate. If you are using
plate, it cannot exceed
3”x3/8” flat strapping, it cannot extend more than 6” on firewall and 6” from windshield
opening. No more than (2)
chain/9 wire/plate in front window opening.
➢ WheelWells-
▪ You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with (6) 3/8”
bolts, and 1.25”diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them.
➢ Radiators-
▪ When mounting the radiator, you must NOT reinforce the core support in any way.
▪ You may have one or the other of the following in front of your radiator-
• 3/16” expanded metal that cannot extend past the front body mount bolts. May be attached with
10 - 3/8” bolts or 10 - 1” welds.
• An automotive air conditioner condenser bolted in with 10 – 3/8” bolts or 10 – 1” welds.
❖ Engines, Transmissions, and other Equipment
➢ GasTank-
▪ 10-gallon tank max, Fuel cells must be well constructed and out of a durable material. No
plastic tanks, metal is preferred, boat tank type is fine. Any splashing, spilling, or leaking of fuel
will result in a broken flag. Fuel cells are recommended to be mounted to the gas tank protector/
cage. No “Gas Tank Holders”. Fuel line should be secured and away from the exhaust.
▪ Fuel tank must be bolted or chained in place with a floor mat covering it. No ratchet straps
unless it’s a secondary device.
➢ Pedals and Batteries-
▪ All battery boxes and gas pedal/brake pedal, and any plate attached to it must be at least 2”
away from all body bolts. These items must be bolted to sheet metal only, they cannot be
attached to the frame in any way. No Larger than 1⁄2” bolts and standard washers may be used to
mount items (No full plate washer’s underneath).
➢ Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers-
▪ Engine coolers and transmission cooler will be allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to
reinforce the car.
➢ GasTank,TransmissionCooler,Battery,Pedals,Shifters,etc.
▪ All equipment must be fashioned tightly to the vehicle! * We do not want to see anything come
loose during the event, if it does, your stick will be pulled.
▪ Equipment cannot be attached to floor sheet metal and cage, one or the other.
➢ Motor-
▪ Motor must be similar to the vehicle you are running, no V8s allowed, motor must be in a like
stock location.
➢ Engine Protector-
▪ No engine protector components are allowed, no cradles, carb protectors, etc.
➢ Engine Attachment-
▪ Engine must attach like factory
❖ Cage-
A 4-point cage and some sort of rollover protection is mandatory, this is a non-option. Safety is
our #1 priority. A 4-point
cage consists of a dash bar, a bar behind your seat, and 2 bars connecting those bars running
along your doors. Either a bar that extends up from the back-seat bar, behind your seat, and is
welded/bolted to the roof, or a halo bar that extends up from the side bars and connects with a
bar across the top of the roof will be sufficient for rollover protection.
➢ 4 Point Cage-
▪ All cage material may be no larger than 6” diameter.
▪ Door bar lengths are not to exceed 62”. This bar must not extend more than 18” behind the
center post on a four-door
car and 10” behind the center post on a two-door car.
▪ Dash bar and seat bar can only be 6” diameter or less and you may use only one, no doubling of
these bars.
▪ All bars must be on the interior of the vehicle.
▪ The bar behind the seat can be no further than 6” behind the seat and must follow the center
post rule above.
▪ Cage may be gusseted at each joint and one on each side of the gas tank protector.
▪ All bars must be straight bars nothing contoured to the body.
▪ All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off the floor, except for down legs that you will
be allowed. Dash bar will
be measured at the transmission tunnel; all other bars will be measured at the nearest part of the
floor (This includes
the gas tank protector). No cage components may be welded to the floor, except for the down
legs.
▪ All cage components must be at least 6” away from the firewall at the start of the event.
NOTHING can be closer the 6’’
➢ Down Bars-
▪ You will be allowed (4) down legs. Down legs can be no bigger than 2”x3”x1/4”, welded to the
door bars, and they must be vertical. They cannot extend higher than the cage bar unless being
used as your rollover bar. These bars may be welded to the top side of the floor and must not
have any other material use to weld the down bars to the floor. If these legs are welded to the
front or back of the door bar they will be added to the total length of the bar, which is still not
allowed to be longer than 62”. Legs must be attached to the main 4-point cage, NOT the gas tank
protector. Front down legs cannot extend further past the INTERIOR front door seem and rear
seat down bar cannot extend any further backward then the rear of the door bar based the door
bar criteria above.
➢ Halo/Rollover Bars-
▪ Must be attached to the 4-point cage following the length of bar rules above. Can be welded to
floor with no larger material than 2”x3”x1/4”. Must be vertical, not angled forward or back. The
bars may be bolted to the roof with (4)
1/2” bolts.
➢ Gas Tank Protector-
*Tubing for protector must be 6” diameter or smaller. The protector must be no wider than 24”,
must be at least 4” off the floor, and must be in the center of the car. Protector must have a 1”
gap between the rear package tray and any sheet metal and cannot be attached to it in any way. If
you are caught attaching your gas tank protector to the package tray, sheet metal, or frame, a 3”
gap will be required between the protector and the package tray to fix the problem. If you extend
the gas tank protector above the package tray it must be perfectly vertical and not extend more
than 6” above the speaker deck.
❖ Wheels, Suspension, and Steering
➢ Rear Suspension-
▪ Rear suspension must be stock to the vehicle you are running, struts must be stock with no
added material.
▪ The rear suspension of cars can be welded to achieve desirable bumper height. On a strut
vehicle you cannot add any
extra material, only weld around the strut rod.
➢ Rear Control Arms-
▪ You may brace the rear control arms, you must use the stock control arms to the vehicle you
are running, and all
material must be inside the control arm.
➢ Tires and Wheels
▪ Wheels no bigger than 16”, no split rims, no studded tires. Doubled tires are ok, we don’t want
any flats!
▪ Foam filled tires are not allowed on drive tires.
▪ Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheels may be bead locked. You
may run weld in centers.
▪ Outside of the rim may be reinforced but no bracing may extend past the outside edge of the
rim, this includes the
bead lock. All wheels must have start as a factory wheel.
➢ Front Suspension and Steering-
▪ FACTORY STEERING CONFIGURATION FOR THE CAR YOU ARE RUNNING MUST
BE USED.
▪ Struts-
• Front suspension must be stock to the vehicle you are running, aftermarket or homemade struts
are allowed
• The front suspension of cars can be welded to achieve desirable bumper height.
▪ Tie Rods, Ball Joints, and Rack-
• Tie rods and ball joints may be stock or aftermarket to the vehicle you are running. The rack
must be stock to vehicle if using the stock tie rod you may weld angle iron to strengthen
All vehicles will be subjected to be scoped inside of the frame and subframe!