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Trans Borneo 2021 part 2

12/09/2022

THE BORNEO POST
Monday, 12 September 2022
Page 6.

1. Sabah's Cultural Ambassadors to Indonesia
2. TransBorneo through a woman's lens

12/09/2022

TRANS BORNEO - THE TWILIGHT TRAIL (01-21/10/2022)
UNDUK NGADAU AMBASSADORS FOR SABAH

With this year’s chapter of the Trans Borneo The Twilight Trail (TBTTT) fast approaching this October, we sat down to chat with two young ladies, Natalie Ally Hepeni (Unduk Ngadau Membakut 2022) and Flores Cuthbert (Unduk Ngadau Kalabakan 2022). They will be taking part in the TBTTT expedition to Kalimantan as Sabah’s Cultural Ambassadors to Indonesia.

Read on to get to know more about these two Unduk Ngadau and what they look forward to during TBTTT as a cultural immersion programme.

1. Tell us more about yourself, your hopes and your aspirations.

Natalie Ally Hepeni: I am a 22-year-old student from Penampang. My passion is to plan and execute trips across four territories in Borneo (Sabah, Kalimantan Utara, Kalimantan Timur and Sarawak) to learn about different cultures and speak with locals about the issues they face. Finally, one of my greatest ambitions was to become someone who could inspire and motivate others through their creativity or simply be a role model. I also want to be able to make my family proud by supporting them as they have done for me.

Flores Cuthbert: I'm 25 years old and currently working as a graduate research assistant at Universiti Malaysia Sabah. At the same time, I'm also doing my Master's degree in economics. My aspiration is to help preserve our culture for the sake of future generations to come.

2. What attracted you to join the Unduk Ngadau and how has your experience been so far?

NAH: Unduk Ngadau, as we all know, is more than just a beauty pageant. It has more to do with the local culture. I've been a participant in Unduk Ngadau since I was 12 years old, and it's given me a lot of experience. To be honest, I was never taught how to speak in my mother tongue. But, as I learnt more each year, I am able to speak Kadazandusun. I can say that I am not fluent, but still learning rather than starting from scratch.

FC: My journey in UN started back in 2016 where I was crowned as UNK Tambunan. Through the reign, I gain a lot of experiences and I am aware about one thing. Our mother tongue extinction. Based on my initial observation during the reign in 2016, there is a lack of mother tongue awareness in our society.

I feel like there is a need of a spokesperson(s) that will create awareness among the KDMR people in Sabah and I believe that UN is a powerful platform to deliver this message to KDMR people as UN competition will be under the spotlight during this festival.

After five years, I come back to the competition with a purpose which is to create awareness of the importance to preserve our mother tongue for future generation. I always emphasized this during the interviews. I didn't compete for the crown or prizes. If I win, that will be a bonus. The most important thing is, I want to reach the KDMR people and deliver them the message and be a role model to the younger generation.

3. What attracted you to be a part of TBTTT?

NAH: Since I majored in tourism, I believe TBTTT will provide me with additional knowledge and experience when it comes to tourism. I am excited to visit some of Kalimantan's most beautiful islands and locations.

FC: I'm an outdoor person. I love nature, I love adventure, challenges and most important thing is I love to learn about Kalimantan ethnicity and culture. Joining TBTTT is like a dream come true. Travelling on an airplane is normal, but travelling on a 4WD vehicle is really out of the ordinary.

4. What are you looking forward to the most during TBTTT this October?

NAH: To explore the natural beauty of Borneo as well as the wilderness of Borneo!

FC: There a few things I look forward the most. Firstly, the culture. After doing a bit research, there are some similarities between us and them in terms of traditional costume, dance, and handicrafts, beading and so on. Secondly, the adventure I can't wait to experience the hardcore trail. Lastly, if I were given chance to try their exotic food, I'd love to.

5. What are you planning to showcase as a cultural ambassador for Sabah to Indonesia during TBTTT?

NAH: My plans are simple, but I want to show them our traditions through music. I believe that by sharing our culture with others, we can ensure the preservation of our rich cultural traditions and ethnic diversity as a resource for tourism and future generations.

FC: My district's traditional costume and traditional dance and our local song (Murut song) I will put on the sinombiaka pinolongon (traditional costume) during the activities and explain about this if necessary.

Ends.

12/09/2022

TRANS BORNEO LAND BELOW THE WIND (12-19/12/2021)
THROUGH THE WOMEN'S LEN'S

When Anuar Ghani, the Event Director of Trans borneo 2021, invited the Unduk Ngadau Kaamatan 2021 committee to take part in the 7-day expedition, I was not prepared to join in as the I have other prior commitments in between the dates.

I was also confident that with our Unduk Ngadau, Maya Hejnowska, going with her mother as a participating reporter for the media group, she was going to be in a good hands. However, during our meeting to finalise the trip (and to choose whether to go on the hardcore class or touring class), and after Anuar had explained to us the route there, I then decided, “OK, I’m joining this adventure of a lifetime!”

Having experienced walking in the jungle from Long Semado to Long pasia, in search of Upai Semaring archeological Batu Narit, as part of the Sabah Museum and Sarawak Museum joint-border effort, being in the jungle is no strange experience to me. But to be travelling on the four-wheel vehicle is much more challenging then I have imagined.

But just one day before the trip our Unduk Ngadau, Maya called me to tell me that she couldn’t join the trip because she was just informed that her exams will be held during the same dates as the trip.

Disappointed as we were, Anuar then asked for a replacement. Thankfully, we managed to contact the first runner up, Dianarin Vahidin from Paginatan and she agreed straight away. She got her swab test done and packed her bags immediately. On the day of the flag off, which was on the 12th of December, we picked her up on our way at Sabah Parks. On the first night we went through Kokol, Natai then thru Kiulu to Bundu Tuhan to Mesilau. It was an amazing road trip!

Now looking back, it has been one an amazing trip going on a hardcore adventure in the jungles of Borneo. To expect the unexpected was the motto of the trip as explained by our Event Director was indeed true to its words.

During the first few days, we had spent most of the time waiting for the Anuar’s vehicle to be repaired as the left shaft was broken. Dianarin and I assumed the cooking task while the men worked on their vehicles. We went to look for wild ferns and cooked them with canned sardines that we brought with us. We also spent the afternoon swimming in cool calm water in the forest streams.

After that, the journey took us deeper into the Kun Kun river retreat centre and there we enjoyed more swimming and nature bliss. We also had more adventures looking for wild vegetables while another vehicle was being repaired, which was the norm when participating in an offroading expedition.

The journey was not only thru the jungle but also to the island of Bohey Dulang in Semporna. I even went up the peak twice- once to see the sunset and one to see dawn breaking. We also visit the island of Sibuan and Mantabuan, which are beautiful islands in Semporna. At the farewell party, the teams who did well were also rewarded for their roles in the journey of Trans Borneo.

In hindsight, I am so glad that I joined the trip that brought me to the heart of Sabah, Borneo. I appreciate how the men handled their machine and the comradeship were awesome. I’ve always loved nature, whether it’s the sea, the jungle or the mountain and going offroading was a really refreshing experience in nature. Seeing how the jungle has grown back after being logged over the years was a sight to behold, but it was also sad to see some parts that never really recovered like how it used to be.

This year, the Unduk Ngadau committee has once again been invited again by Trans Borneo Event Manager, Mr. Anuar Ghani This year, two of our Unduk Ngadau (representatives from Membakut and Tawau) have taken the opportunity to take part.

This year, we will be showcasing our cultural heritage such our traditional costumes and Sabahan songs to our Kalimatan hosts, as this a great opportunity for cultural exchanges and immersion experience between Borneo ethnic groups. Once again, I am looking forward to greater adventures and to expect the unexpected in the last frontiers of Borneo, as they are so many interesting history to be learnt still.

-Ends.

12/08/2022

STORIES OF THE APO KAYAN – BORNEO’S REMOTEST DISTRICT: LONG NAWANG — A FORGOTTEN TRAGEDY

Journalist James Ritchie has put together the story of brutal massacres of a group of 70 European men, women and children from Sarawak and Dutch Borneo between August and September 1942 when the Japanese invaded Sarawak and Kalimantan.

Ritchie first picked up the story of the incident more than 20 years ago before he finally decided to visit the site of massacres at Long Nawang, a Kenyah village on the Sarawak-Kalimantan border in 2017 to bring some closure to the dastardly incident.

He was the first journalist to visit Long Nawan together with two friends-- retired Royal Malaysian Airforce (RMAF) Brigadier Datuk Soon Lian Cheng who flew along the Sarawak-Kalimantan border during Confrontation in a Twin Pioneers deploying British troops in the infamous “Undeclared War” between the two neighbours.

Both Brigadier Soon and Ritchie took off from Kuching to the Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan by Malindo airlines for a night stop.

From there, the duo flew to Balikpapan a modern metropolis which is going to be part of the President’s new Indonesian capital of “Nusantara”.

After three-hour 100km road trip to Samarinda, the largest city and the Administrative centre in East Kalimantan, they flew to their destination.

From Samarinda, they headed one of Borneo’s remotest regions in the 2,500ft mountain complex -- home of 12,000 tribal Kenyah natives of the district of Kayan Hulu.

Ritchie spent a week in the heart of Borneo—where he spoke to the village elders and descendants of the original inhabitants of the island, the Kenyah, who are still traumatised by the incident.

James Ritchie’s account:

My mission was to visit Long Nawang—one of the villages and site of the cruel massacre of nearly 70 European men, women and children in 1942 in the early stages of the Second World War.
In 1950 the graves of the victims were removed to Tarakan and described by commander of the Dutch forces in Kalimantan Brigadier General W.J.V. Windeyer as “one of the worst (atrocities) so far disclosed in Borneo”.

We took off in a Cessna Caravan aircraft skilfully piloted by an Australian pilot named Zach and Indonesian pilot Dandi who took us into a mountainous region.

In 60 minutes we arrived at Long Ampung and were received by police Lt Eddie who hails from the Kerayan—another border plateau adjacent to Sarawak’s Ba Kelalan complex.
It was a hour’s drive to one of Kalimantan’s remote airstrips until we reached Long Nawang, a village where inter-tribal wars were fought.

In 1892, the Iban of Kapit led by its charismatic leader Temenggong Koh anak Jubang, travelled up the 563km Rajang River and killed 25 Indonesian Kenyah Badang in retaliation for the murder of some of their people who had strayed into their territory while looking for wild rubber.

In the early 1900s, the Dutch government set up a border outpost at Long Nawang--the closest village to the Sarawak border to bring the situation under control.

By 1924, a peace-making ceremony was held between the Iban and the repentant warring tribes of Upper Rajang and Apo Kayan.
In the presence of Rajah Vyner Brooke, the leaders brought some semblance of peace to the region and from then on Long Nawang was a holiday resort because of its temperate climate and pleasant surroundings in a village of a dozen traditional longhouses.

Apo Kayan is divided into two sub-districts -- Kayan Hulu and Kayan Hilir with the majority of Kenyah Lepo Tau and Lepo Jalan with Kayan and Punan, living in about 30 villages.

In the pre-war days, the Kenyah lived in impressive longhouses but since Indonesia’s Independence on August 17, 1945, all the longhouses have been dismantled in favour of single unit abodes.

To relive the tale of the Long Nawang killings I met communal chiefs Lucas Bilong, Kepala Adat” cultural chiefs—Ngang Jau and Baya Lek, and Lahang Ibau-- to speak about the long-forgotten story of the tragic massacres.

Ngang expounded: “It’s a tragedy that our old-timers cannot forget”.

“I remember my father telling me about an incident not far from here where a Japanese soldier took an infant from a European mother (the child of Sibu Resident Andrew MacPherson) to a spot where was a thorny “Jeruk” Orang tree, threw the child so that the screaming child was pierced by the thorns as it fell on the tree.”

In a 1995 interview with Sarawak’s famous sape player Tusau Padan, he witnessed the killing of a young boy aged about five, who was forced to climb a “Pinang” (arecanut) tree naked. Tusau who was born in Long Nawang and was 11 years old at that time said: “The child was forced to climb the tree like a monkey but after a while he got tired and slipped down while a Japanese soldier with a bayoneted rifle aimed for the boy’s backside and plunged the weapon in causing the screaming child to die a painful death”.

There were other horrible things that happened—the possible r**e of the four women who were later bayoneted to death before being pushed into a shallow grave.

Long Nawang cultural chief Baya Apui, 76, said that at that time the Kenyah were still animists until Christianity began to make inroads into Apo Kayan in the 1950s.

“There was so much cruelty by the Japanese who enjoyed watching the Europeans suffer. It’s with some regret that we were unable to make an effort to protect the victims,” lamented Baya who became a member of the Evangelical church of Indonesia Gereja Khemah Injil Indonesia (GKII) in 1958.

Taken on a tour to the four graves of victims—now part the proposed new border road from Long Nawang to Sarawak where an CIQ (Customs, Immigration and Quarantine station) will be built in the near future, there was nothing to indicate that this was where a brutal and cruel murder had occurred.

Not far from the “graves” was a monument to honour the 12 Kenyah who had captured and killed two Japanese stragglers at the tail end of the war—but not a single memorial to remember the slaughter of the innocents!!!!

According to Lucas Bira the Long Nawang village Penghulu Oyong Lejau gathered 11 of his bravest men—Larung Adjan, Surang Kule, Ibau Lawai, Pulang Anyie, Adjang Surang, Lalo Sulang, Ala Tului, Adjang Langet, Sulang Apui, Larong, Bila Larung and the strongest Gun Kila—to capture the duo.

Soon after Tanaka’s arrival, the Kenyah visited his residence to bring a fabricated story that a large group of Japanese from Long Pahangai were on their way to Long Nawang to join him.

Elated with the good news, Tanaka thanked and stretched out his hand which Gun Kila grabbed in a powerful grip.

With this signal, the others joined in to wrestle down the Japanese.
Kondo who had gone for a walk returned to the bungalow, only to be detained without a struggle.

Both Tanaka and Kondo had their wrists and ankles broken and were forced to crawl under the longhouse with the pigs.

Finally, they were dragged along the narrow suspension bridge of loose planks and protruding rusty nails the to the site of the four graves.

Beng Hai said: “While Kondo shrieked and yelled in mournful pain, the captain upheld his integrity under the Bushido (warrior) code remaining stoic and silent.”

Both were slashed to death with Dayak parangs and buried about 20 yards away from the mass burial site.

To honour the Kenyahs involved in the capture and killings of the Japanese, the Kayan Hulu authorities built a monument and etched their names on it.

During my visit I noticed that only the names of the Indonesian heroes and Dutch and Indonesian administrators were placed on the plaque and this was confirmed by Event Director of Trans Borneo The Twilight Trail (TBTTT) 2022, Anuar bin Tan Sri Ghani Gilong during his epic three-day journey recce to Long Nawang in July, 2022 (See posting on FB and Borneo Post 01/08/2022).

Anuar suggested it was only fitting that in the spirit of “silaturahim” solidarity with our Indonesian counterparts, if we put full the list of 70 victims on the monument.

Following a meeting with Sarawak’s Minister of Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts, Datuk Karim Rahman on 2nd August 2022, he agreed to the suggestion. Negotiations and arrangements are afoot with Indonesian authorities. Hopefully, Anuar says, we can coincide the unveiling of the names with the arrival of the convoy during the TBTTT event.

At that sombre and meaningful occasion, we hope to bring closure to the forgotten tragedy and the “Trans Borneo The Twilight Trail” will take the lead in honouring the fallen martyrs!! Lest we forget!

Trans Borneo The Twilight Trail 2022 (TBTTT) is organised by North Borneo Explorer Sdn Bhd. The TBTTT is supported and sanctioned by the Governments of Sabah and Sarawak and the provinces of Kaltara and Kaltim. TBTTT is sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Environment Sabah, MEASAT, KKIP, Qazanah, Sabah Energy Corporation, Sawit Kinabalu, The KDCA (Kadazan Dusun Cultural Association) and DIO (Dayak International Organisation). Participation is still open. Please call 0168811725, 088-254187 and refer to website: trans borneo.net, Facebook: North Borneo Explorer KK , and You Tube: Trans Borneo.

End/jr August 10, 2022

08/08/2022

DOWN MEMORY LANE WITH TUAN HAKIM KHAN

Tuan Hakim is a Sabahan pioneer with business experience that spans more than five decades. He was born in Kudat some 81 years ago, to a father of Pakistani descent, Hj Kalakhan bin Gulabshah and Hajjah Tiamis binti Jamal,a Bajau whose father was a dusun Lotud from Tuaran. A typical Sabahan “rojak.” Happily married to Hajjah Sabzan binti Kalia Khan for 62 years, they have 5 children Zorah (61), Sarah (60), Rahim (58), Rahman (49) and Reezal (40).His illustrious brothers are the late Datuk Hj. Momen Kalakhan, former Speaker of The Dewan Undangan Negeri of Sabah, Haji Hayum Kalakhan, a businessman, Tan Sri Majid Khan, former political secretary of Donald Stephens, one time Chairman of Sabah development Bank and former malaysian ambassador to Iraq.
During his formative years he and his family were close to many who would become the founding fathers of what is today Malaysia. Tuan Hakim himself got into business.

His father was a technician who came to Sabah after working in Singapore and Indonesia. He worked with the then British Public Works Department in Jesselton but was soon transferred to Kudat. After retiring from the government sector, he opened up a rubber plantation in Tuaran, but also supplied cloth to local merchants. In his school holidays it was Tuan Hakim’s job to collect the debts. He would board the ship from Jesselton to Kudat, Sandakan, Lahad Datu and Semporna, and Tawau, and, unaccompanied, would collect all the debts at each port and embark on the ship to the next port or town. He fondly remembers his journeys to Ranau, back then no a mean feat. In the 1960s, it was still an arduous full-day off-road adventure using Ranau Transport company run by the late Tan Sri Ghani Gilong. After his work stayed overnight at the Ranau resthouse atop a hill.

After school he worked in a timber concession given to the Ulu Tungku cooperative in the Lahad Datu area contracted to Yong Yun, the father of the former Chief minister of Sabah Datuk Yong Teck Lee. When the contract ran out in 1967, he was advised to go and try his luck in Jakarta and thus he arrived there with Datuk HJ.Momen and Datuk Arif Salleh of Keningau, with nothing more than a Letter of introduction from Yong Yun to the the Trading House Marubumi . In Jakarta they were asked whether they wanted to go to Kalimantan, which was back then still a backwater area. He remembers that when they arrived in Balikpapan timber was still extracted using purely manpower : men would pull two-meter long trunks out of the forest and towards the nearest river in what they called “kayu kuda-kuda.” And in Samarinda, there were only five or six foreigners, including a British Sarawakian and himself.

Soekarno was still in power then and under his Foreign Investment Law, which is still in use, foreigners had to give 51% of their concern to local indonesians. This was good for locals but not so good for foreigners. Thus Tuan Hakim found himself without timber contracts but he was requested (ordered) by then Governor of Kalimantan Timur (Kaltim), General Wahad Sharani to “Jangan bawa lari duit dari kayu” and to build a classy hotel in Balikpapan. Many international petroleum companies such as Total, Elf , Shell and others were flocking the humble but soon to be booming oil town. There were no high end accommodation for the oil executives to stay back then. The building boom had not yet started. The town was to be radically transformed with Tun Hakim at the helm of this development.

Tuan Hakim found a local partner, Rustam Affendi and they were given the “best spot in town”, along jalan Antasari. The problem was it was in the red light district. Tun Hakim chuckled at the memory of how the local authorities told him that this was an eye sore anyway and they would clear the area for him to build a hotel. The cost of the land which was about a hectare was nominal. The plan was to build the biggest and grandest hotel in Balikpapan.A big hotel : 220 rooms, 10 floors, a swimming pool and a helipad on the roof! The construction began in 1972 at a projected cost of 16 million US$ (which is now, adjusted for inflation, around 112 million US$).Due to the logistics they had a 10 million US$ cost overrun by the time everything was ready. It was the first steel fabricated structure in Kalimantan - and only the fourth in the whole of Indonesia then. Everything had to be imported. The steel was Japanese, fabricated in Singapore and shipped by sea to Balikpapan. The stones came from Palu in Sulawesi by sail boat! And later all the fittings and furniture had to be imported from Hong Kong and as far as Germany. It was only in 1983 that the soft opening was held, and in 1985 that the Balikpapan Benakutai was finally fully operational. In the 1990s Tuan Hakim Khan divested his interest in Balikpapan Benakutai to his former partner, Rustam Affendi who in turn sold it to the Jusuf Kala’s group of companies. Ir Awang Farouk, the then Governor of Kalimantan Timur (Kaltim) insisted on keeping the name Benakutai, in deference to the Kabupaten (Regency) that it is located in. To this day, the hotel is still in operation under the name of the New Benakutai Hotel. We stayed at the New Benakutai during our reconnaissance (Survey as the Indonesians call it) of Kalimantan and the rooms are huge and spacious though a bit worn down. It has seen better days.

Tuan Hakim recalls these years fondly, and is very much in favour of the construction of overland roads into Kalimantan. It is an area with tremendous potential, he tells and easy and free travel by road between Sabah and Indonesia can only be mutually beneficial. He recalls the days when he had to fly from Kota Kinabalu to Singapore, from there to Jakarta and then by a DC3 air plane first to Banjarmasin before continuing in a DC3 to Balikpapan. Times have changed tremendously, and opportunities have grown exponentially, particularly in East Kalimantan. Back then, in the seventies, he recalls vividly how difficult communication was. In Balikpapan they still used crank telephones, which went through an operator, and international calls were impossible. Also, few houses had telephones so you had to go to a “wartel” to make a phone call. This has all changed for the better. In fact, Balikpapan is now by far the most modern and cosmopolitan city in Kalimantan. Doing business in Indonesia nowadays is equally smooth, and both, Tuan Hakim affirms again, the authorities and the business community are highly efficient.

His best advise to businessman wanting to do business in Indonesia is “to get a good and trusted local partner. That is the key to success!”

Kalimantan has plenty of natural resources, a cheap (and most importantly a reliable) electricity supply from it’s 4,400 rivers. The local authorities are encouraging business, particularly in the manufacturing sector. However, Tun Hakim continues, there are also plenty of opportunities in the plantation and reforestation sectors. Tourism is “luar biasa,”. Kaltim has the Beautiful Derawan Islands (Whale Sharks), Sangkalaki (Manta ray) , Maratua (Green Turtles) and Kakaban (Stingless jellyfish). Also it has the Irrawaddy fresh water dolphins(locally known as Pesut) in the Mahakam. There is the historical Kutai museum exhibiting the reign of the Kutai sultanate from the 14th to 20th century. In Sulawesi, Raja Ampat fast becoming a popular diving and recreational destination.
The food industry is good, anything in the food industries is good, he reiterates. The population and market is huge.

Our insightful interview with Tuan Hakim ended when he had to go to the airport. He is flying to Jakarta, where he is invited to attend the wedding of one of his many family friends in Indonesi. Not only has he pioneered business in Kalimantan, but over five decades he has also built long lasting friendships. He is very much looking forward to closer cross-border cultural and economic exchanges for the benefit and prosperity of both Sabah and Kalimantan.
With so much business experiences over 55 years of doing business there, Tuan Hakim Khan is more than qualified to advise the throngs of businessman who are now flocking to Kalimantan. In fact, he was the Representative on Foreign Investments for the office of the former Governor of Kalimantan Utara (Kaltara) Pak Irianto Lambrie. The state government of Sabah should consider tapping into his experience if it wishes to pe*****te and do business with Kalimantan Indonesia.
Tuan Hakim Khan, a Sabahan who did good in Kalimantan, who is an inspiration and a true example of “Sabah Bolih”.

North Borneo Explorer Sdn Bhd will be organizing an event called TransBorneo-The Twilight Trail (TBTTT) covering Sabah, Kaltara, Kaltim, and Sarawak from 1-21/10/22.The TBTTT is supported and sanctioned by the Governments of Sabah and Sarawak and the provinces of Kaltara and Kaltim. TBTTT is sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Environment Sabah, MEASAT, KKIP, Qazanah, Sabah Energy Corporation, Sawit Kinabalu, The KDCA ( Kadazan Dusun Cultural Association, DIO (Dayak International Organisation). Participation is still open. Please call 016881172, 088-254187 and refer to website: trans borneo.net, Facebook: North Borneo Explorer KK , and You Tube: Trans Borneo.

05/08/2022

TRANS BORNEO THE TWILIGHT TRAIL 2022 (TBTTT) - RECCE

Our Recce Team have done a road survey, to inspect the road condition, meeting with the Indonesian authorities, and other early preparation for our upcoming event "TBTTT" on the 1st - 21st October 2022!!!

We have proudly finished the Recce and are more than ready to bring all of our participants to this event!

See on 1st August 2022.

05/08/2022

Trans Borneo- The Twilight Trail, Recce notes

SPANNER IN THE WORKS
We had planned the 4,600 kms reconnaissance (Recce) for the TransBorneo 2022-The Twilight Trail (TBTTT) planned from 1-21/10/22 from Sabah through Kaltara, Kaltim and exiting at Sarawak for months. My team of three vehicles and 6 people including myself, Antony Melvin Joitol, Yap Nan Tien, Evant Yap, Ruby Rudolfo, and Aik Twong had spent a lot of time and resources preparing our vehicles, poring over maps, collecting supplies, equipment and parts and were due to leave on 11/7.

I always look forward to Recces. The excitement of going to new places, discovering new things, not knowing what’s round the corner, fulfilling your curiosity and satisfying your thirst for wanderlust and adventure. It is less stressful than the actual event where there are people to look after and unexpected things happen. When you “Expect the unexpected”.

On Tuesday (5/7), we were informed that the Tentera Nasional Indonesia (TNI) required approval from the Foreign Ministries and embassies of Malaysia and Indonesia for us to cross over the border at Simanggaris. We had already obtained the approvals form Immigration, MKN , Customs of Sabah, from the governor of Kaltara, Kaltim and the support of the Sarawak government. Approval from Wisma Putra and the Indonesian Foreign ministry may take weeks. I changed plans immediately. Instead of going with 3 vehicles and 6 people I decided to go in a twosome with my longstanding and reliable co-driver Anthony Melvin Joitol. Melvin is a surveyor who has been with me on numerous events and adventures and is very proficient with the GPS (Global Positioning Position) and who gives sound advise.

On Friday (8/7), we were informed by the Konsulate Indonesia Tawau that we had approval from TNI to pass the border. I wanted it in writing due to an unpleasant experience in the past but as they were working through the system, it was not forthcoming through the weekend. In abundance of caution, I decided to do the crossing through the conventional way.

11/7-REPLACEMENT HOLIDAY
On 11/7 Melvin and I flew from KK-Tawau. It was the first flight for either of us for two years. We could not cross on 11/7 because it was a Hari Raya Aidil Adha replacement holiday and the customs and immigration were closed.

12/7-WITH THE AUTHORITIES IN NUNUKAN
We took the one and a half hour crossing from Tawau to Nunukan.There we met the Bea Cukai (customs), imigrasi, TNI (Dandim).

Nunukan is an island just below Sebatik and is 226Km2 (55,000 acres). Nunukan depends very much on Tawau for essential supplies and it’s main industry is sea w**d cultivation.

13/7-ON TO THE INDONESIAN MAINLAND
With Pak W***y Charles who drove from Malinau and came by speed boat to pick us up at Nunukan, we crossed by speed boat from Nunukan to Sungai Ular, Simanggaris. The entry point for the crossing falls under the jurisdiction of the kabupaten of Nunukan. At the arrangement of Pak Wily Charles, we stayed at the Bupati (Regent) of Malinau’s house.

14/7-SUPER TOTO
The next day, we were given a Toyota Kijang Innova with a super (driver) by the single name of Fransisko nicknamed Toto.

Pemprov and Indonesian concerns
We drove from Malinau to Tanjong Selor (213 kms) for 5 hours. There we met the Pemprov (Pemerintah Provinsi) with representatives from 15 Dinas (Departments) to discuss the event. Everyone took turns to speak in relation to their departments.
The Kepala Dinas Pariwisata (Tourism)of Kaltara Ngau Nana told us of his concern for 3 things;

1.The trade issue at the Bakelalan (Sarawak)/ Long Midang (Kaltara) border
2.Why there is still no border road and CIQ (Customs, Immigration and Quarantine) point between Sabah and Kaltara?
3.The fate of the Dayaks with the impending and inevitable influx of Sumaterans, Javanese Sulawesians, Madurese, Balinese, Lombokians, Papuans from other parts of Indonesia into Kalimantan when the IKN (Ibu Kota Negara) at Nusantara and development takes off in Kaltim (Kalimantan Timur).

I told him I will bring issue 1 up with the Sarawak government when I go to Kuching.

As for the CIQ and road between Sabah and Kaltara, I told him cross-border roads was a federal matter. Nevertheless, the Chief Minister of Sabah YAB Datuk Hajiji Noor was working hard on getting it built.

As for 3, I suggested he should perhaps talk to Datuk Jefferey Kitingan about Dayak rights since Datuk Jeffery was the Panglima Bujang Berani (Chief) of the Dayaks in Kalimantan and President of the DIO(Dayak International Organisation and seek his views.

15/7- DERAWAN
The drive from Tanjung Selor to Tanjung Batu (143 kms) took 4 hours. Half hour boat ride to Derawan Island. Derawan is a resort with a kampung measuring 35.99 hectares (88 acres) with a circumference of 2.3 kms taking 40 minutes to circumnavigate. It has grown since i last came here in 1996. Then we had a wild party after which a female dutch participant was molested and an american and dutch participant (temporarily) had their baggage stolen during the night. Everything was resolved. That resort no longer existed or maybe I just don’t recognize it after all these years.

Who says the Indonesians are dirty?
Unlike the kampung part of Mabul island in Sabah, Derawan is a clean island. The inhabitants there are self governing under the Ketua Kampung. They keep the island clean and pristine realising their livelihood and reputation depends on it. Derawan is famous for sightings of Whale sharks. During the actual event in October, our base camp will be Derawan Island and we will make trips to the Sangkalaki (Manta rays), Maratua (Green turtles) and kakaban (Jelly fish) islands. During the Recce, we stayed at Lapatua resort, very basic and at best one star. Anyway, our accommodation motto is after all, “Five stars, no star and under the stars”.

16/7- SICK TOTO
As we returned to the mainland, Super Fransisko “Toto” was in Puskesmas (District clinic). He had a rough night suffering from internal organs, stomach and back pains. I accompanied him in the ambulance (to “ mententeramkan dia”) to the Tanjung Redeb (Berau) city hospital.He was in obvious distress. After his relatives arrived, superless ( no driver) we proceeded on to Labuan Cermin.

Tanjung Redeb-Labuan Cermin (234 kms) 8 hour drive
Labuan Cermin Is a lagoon, fresh water on top and salt water below. The water is crystal clear. There is a huge variety of marine life. Like Derawan Islands, it is not a gazzetted park. The up keep and administration is run by the local people. To keep it pristine no resort is built at or near the lagoon. Beautiful place to swim and snorkel. There is no rubbish. The locals are proud of their lagoon and all partake in keeping it free of rubbish.

17/7- Appendicitis and displaced brakes
That morning we were informed by Pak Charles that Toto had appendicitis and required an immediate operation.

The bumpy road to Labuan Cermin had dislodged the drum brake shoes, causing the tyres to jam. It was a quick fix for RP 50,000 (RM14).

Labuan Cermin to Equator town Bontang
The drive from Labuan Cermin to Bontang (316kmS) is a bone shaking 13 hour drive partly through oil palm estates. There was an impassable stretch where a group of vehicles had gathered. In a convoy, we sought a detour and it was amazing that we found our way back to the main road because nobody knew the way. The blind leading the blind. Driving with those heavily tinted windscreen which the Indonesians are so fond of at night is very stressful on the eyes. Especially on the road conditions which alternated from flat sealed road, to serrated broken and potholed roads. It is worse than the road from Telupid to Sandakan. Suspensions must be good on these roads. We reached Bontang at 11pm.

Therein I think is the weak point of tourism in Kaltim. The distances between attractions are huge with bad roads, infrastructure and services.

18/7-Titik Nol
From Bontang to Titik Nol (Ground Zero), IKN (Ibu Kota Negara) Nusantara( (250kms) it took 5 ½ hrs, using the only toll road in Borneo. We were happily blasting it at 140kms until we realized that the speed limit was 80kms an hour. I told Melvin to cool it. Titik Nol is normally only open to visitors on the weekends. We had special permission from acting Kepala Dinas Kaltara ( Head of Tourism Department) Pak Baihaqi and Pak Basuki of the federal ministry now administering the IKN. The plans to develop Nusantara are staggering. At 2,561 km2 (632,836 acres)it will be 52 times bigger than Putra Jaya 59Km2 (12,108acres) when completed, costing an estimated USD 33 Billion.

Balikpapan
At Balikpapan, we met Joko Purwanto, Mr. Trans Borneo of Kalimantan, operating since 1983. Joko is a long time advocate of conservation . He is also Chief of the East Kalimantan Nawa Cita Pariwisata Indonesia and the current Chief of the Balikpapan Tourism Board.
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We agreed to work together and coexist. In fact, he gave us our first assignment for visitors from Balikpapan to Sabah. He is currently taking a suit against a PT (company) in Kalbar (Kalimantan Barat) for using the Trans Borneo name without his consent.
We stayed at the New Benakutai, originally called The Benakutai, after the name of the Kabupaten (The Regency), a hotel built by Tuan Hakim Khan ,a Sabahan in the 1980s . (There will be a feature about Tuan Hakim Khan in this series). In it’s heyday, it was THE hotel in Balikpapan and even Suharto stayed there in one of his visits.

19/7- The capital city with the beautiful name
From Balikpapan, Joko took us to Samarinda, where we met the Pak Dany of the Dinas Pariwisata of Kaltim.

In the evening we met the IOF (Indonesian Offroad Federation) members of Kaltim, cabang (branch) Samarinda who gave useful advise on who, where, and how to conduct our upcoming event.

20/7 Towkay of Samarinda, King of the Mahakam
A local foo chow, Kohin gave us a city tour. We were introduced to the Foo Chow Kingpin of Samarinda, Lee Tow Chong ( Ah Tong)who owns malls, hotels, 400 scows 313 feet long daily plying coal (Batu Ara) in the mighty Mahakam river, Borneo’s third longest river at 980 kms, after the Kapuas (1143kms)and Barito river (1090kms). We met at a simple warong, where he signs his cheques over Kopi O, a stone’s throw from his hotel/mall, The Aston. Indonesia has mighty rivers and a total of 4,400 which it is being harnessed to produce hydro power for industrialization. The capacity of a scow is about 1,500 tonnes of coal. At 400 scows, he transports about 600,000 tons. The price of one ton of coal is USD 386. You figure it out.
Kohin showed us where to buy black market Bintang beer to be brought as an ole ole (gift) for the camat (district officier) of Long Nawang in the Apo Kayan.

TIFAF
In the evening we were VIP guest at the TIFAF (Tenggarong International Folk Art Festival ) held at the Sultanate of Tenggarong.18 provinces from all over Indonesia including Java, Sulawesi and Bali showcased their arts, culture and dance to the delight of the crowd. Melvin and I were VIP guests courtesy of Pak Baihaqi, seated just behind the Bupati (Regent) and the Sultan of Kutai. I believe the Sultanate of Kutai is one of the few sultanates in Indonesia as is the Sultanate of the special province of Jogjakarta. Unlike Sultan Hawengkebuwono of JogJakarta , the Sultan of Kutai does not have any executive powers.

Also Seated in front of me at the front row was Ibu Trindiana M Tikupasang, the tourism coordinator for the three territories of Sumatera, Kalimantan and Java. I told her I had written to the Indonesian Minister of Tourism and Creative economy, Pak Sandiaga Uno about my event The Trans Borneo-The Twilight Trail and had (unsurprisingly) received no reply. She asked me to send it to her and said she will convey it to Pak Sandiaga.

All in all, a fruitful day and an enjoyable cultural experience.

21/7 Wasted day
Thursday 21/7 was a wasted day waiting for our offroad vehicle prepared by an IOF representative to be ready. Robert Kamijan, a sabahan residing in Sibu had already left Sibu heading for Kapit and Tapak Megah with 5 vehicles for our rendezvous at Long Nawang.

22-25/7 The journey to the Apo Kayan
Samarinda to Long Bagun
We Started our journey to Apo Kayan, the remotest part of Borneo, 800 kms from Samarinda and 28kms from Tapak Megah, Sarawak. There are 3 ferry river crossings, Long Glawang, Laham and Long Bagun. The road to the Apo Kayan starts at Long bagun. This is Titik Nol (ground zero) where you start counting your kilometers. The road above Long Bagun is divided into sectors. To control traffic they have special radio frequencies for specific mileages.

A group of real life 4x4 drivers, carrying goods and passenger, make a living up and down this road. This fraternity work as a team, as best as any I have seen around the world. They travel singly and as a group. On the road they look after each other, helping each other out, mechanically, logistically or morally. If someone has any vehicle or other issue, they all cooperate to help each other. This is the true 4x4 spirit and camaraderieship that exists in the 4x4 fraternity all over the world. There is no room for Prima Donnas. Today it’s someone’s turn to need help. Tomorrow it may be yours. When our super Norbie asked me whether he could take some load to Long Nawang, I automatically said yes without thinking. I realized later that the extra load slow us down considerably,

The Road to Apo Kayan
The road from Long Bagun is a true test of driving skill, endurance and Mechanical reliability. All with standard vehicles without modifications, winches, snorkels or after market products. As we observed on the journey, the battle for supremacy on the road is between Mitsubishi Triton and Toyota Hilux. Both are battle scarred warriors; vehicles with bumpers, mudguards, fenders, side lights all broken to bits, broken chassis, broken side doors etc.

The Mitsubishi Triton is known for it’s comfort for passengers, suspension and power whilst the Toyota Hilux is renown as a work horse. The fenders for the Toyota is moulded to its body while the Mitsubishi is rivetted or srewed on. The Mitsubishi fenders has a propensity for getting ripped off.

We suggested to the locals to lift their vehicles a couple of inches for ground clearance and Side steps to protect the car body. However, they said that lifting the vehicles affects the stability and also affects the amount of weight they can carry. The sidesteps kept getting hooked up in the narrow roads. Yes, we realized, who are we outsiders to comment on the local practices?

We lost a tyre rim on some rocks . After changing, the spare tyre had a leak. Part of the days work for Norbie. We had to spend the night sleeping in the truck after limping our way, constantly reflating the tyre, to a rest area at Kilometer 122 which is right at the border between Kaltara and Kaltim.

Long Nawang
This road to the last frontier town of Long Nawang is a true test of car reliability and strength. I look forward to testing my truck and equipment against these grounds and terrain in October. Only the best and strong will prevail in these mud infested roads. The is no other similar ground of such length in the whole of Borneo (289 Kilometers). Within a couple of years, this road will be developed and we will lose one of the best off road ground for 4x4.

Coming down the stretch from Mahak towards Long Nawang, the road is wide and flat, probably in early preparation for the construction of the new CIQ (Customs, Immigration and Quarantine) point between Long Nawang and Tapak Megah on the Sarawak side. This is one of the Seven CIQ points planned between Sarawak and Kalimantan. There are two CIQs planned between Kaltara and Sabah at Serudung/Simanggaris and Pangalungan/ Lumbis area. In the future, the Long Nawang and the Tapak Megah/ Kapit road will be the nearest and most important link between Sarawak and Kalimantan. (There will be a follow up article written by prolific writer James Ritchie of Sarawak on the history of the last frontier town of Long Nawang in this series).

Long Nawang is a beautiful village with a population of 3,700 people (2015) who are Dayak Kenyah.

The times, they are a changing
Yes, the times they are a changing. The old will make the way for the new. Hence, the reason I call this year’s event in October “The Twilight Trail”,is marking the dusk of the old Kalimantan and the emergence and dawn of a new Kalimantan and Borneo!!! It will all be different within the next five years. This is the last chance to see the old Kalimantan, folks !!!

It took 3 days to cross the 800 kms. Apart from the 3 rivers crossing the Mighty Mahakam tributaries, we charted 23 small streams and rivers which can take days to go down. Norbie, our super says he sometimes takes 7 days to make the journey. Just like the old days of the tough and tumble roads to the interior of Ranau, Keningau and Tenom, it will all change and the means of transportation by plane and river will be greatly reduced by construction of the highways and roads. The airports were all shut down. It will become the “Good or Bad old days”, depending on your sentiments.
After picking up Passage papers from Pak Setim, the camat (District officier) of Long Nawang, who had his camat chop ready at his residence, we headed for the border.

Greeted by Robert Kamijan and his group who had been waiting for us for two whole days, we crossed the border from Long Nawang, Kaltara into Tapak Megah, Sarawak passing through the army posts where we saw the two different approaches to maintaining security and state of readiness of the Indonesian and Malaysian army.

Suffice to say, I hope we don’t get attacked.

The Real MCcoy
After a three days gruelling drive, grizzled and battle hardened Norbie, our super, did not even stay the night at Long Nawang. He picked up more supplies and headed off in the night back to Long Bagun. He is THE real off roader, the real MCcoy, not like some wannabe weekend city slickers. Salute !!

Highway in the jungle
On the way to Kapit, we got lost and found ourselves in the middle of the jungle in a highway that was fitted with incandescent directional lights which stretched for miles and miles. Some YB had commissioned the road and now it is a white elephant. We drove on following the direction of the river towards Kapit and drove through the night reaching Sibu at 7.30 am in the morning. By then, we had been on the road and on the move for a full 24 hours. We had covered 3,100 kilometers in 14 days and it had been a real adventure and, for the time being , my wanderlust is satisfied. That is, until 1-21/10/22, when we will be making the journey with more friends during “ The Trans Borneo-The Twilight Trail” !!!