24/02/2024
CHUBASCO!
That was the word that jumped out at me from the pages of Ray Cannon's book "The Sea of Cortez", and imprinted itself in my ten year old mind as a new favorite word when I read it for the first time in 1966. It described a hurricane-like wind coming off the Sea of Cortez in summer, and stirred my boyish imagination of such a storm in such an exotic place like Baja. WowI I loved the word, if such a thing like a word can be loved and stayed fascinated by it for years.
I have only a vague idea of how or why an exotic word becomes interesting to any of us, but can extend this lack of clarity to many of my favorite things and simply don't care to be reductionist about them. It may all be unknowable anyway, but just in case it isn't, please do not enlighten me! A little self imposed ignorance is pardonable sometimes.... Little did I know that one word would manifest in two big ways in my life! Chubasco!
The first such occurrence was a restaurant in Park City, Utah. I had decided that there must be others who, like myself, liked authentic Mexican food, and had their own favorite places to frequent back where they came from and that this cuisine was not always available in my adopted state of Utah. I mean yeah, there were imposters offering a very Americanized version of Mexican food with nearly every plate usually smothered in melted cheese, but it just didn't compare to Juanitas (Coast Highway in Encinitas, California) or El Indio (near Old Town San Diego). So, I founded this Mexican restaurant and named it El Chubasco! I had regurgitated Ray Cannon's influence and outed my word to all. (link is below)
But now for the wild time that I was caught in a real Chubasco, circa 2009. Here in Loreto, I had chartered a panga captained by an old, weathered fisherman in his 70's to go fishing alone one June day at the marina in town. As we motored out of Loreto's port and headed North at a good clip, the weather was clear and a bit warm and windless and the Sea was flat like a glassy mirror, a perfect day to catch dorado. We had barely arrived to our first stop about 6 miles Northeast of Coronado Island where we spotted some dorado jumping around a kelp paddy. We weren't fishing more than a few minutes when I noticed in the distance a huge fog bank on the Eastern horizon, which looked to be moving in our direction.
Although the morning had been windless and still, all of a sudden there was a slight, wispy breeze that came at first in short puffs. "Quick! Get your line up now" said the suddenly animated Captain. Puzzled, I nevertheless complied. "Que pasa?" (what's happening?), I asked him over the motor's noise. He turned the boat around and at full throttle gunned the craft southwest toward the leeward side of Coronado Island as fast as the old boat could go. He pointed over his shoulder and with obvious alarm, yelled out the word to me so loudly that I heard it over the motor with perfect clarity. Chubasco!"
Within a few minutes, the full wind reached us and hit our boat like a freight train. The sea boiled and squirmed like a gigantic washing machine and all of a sudden lightning flashes started striking all around. The boat was lurching and launching over crests of walls of water, landing with a pounding thud on the water. I could feel the fiberglass bottom of the panga flex upward when it hit the water, so great was the impact force. It was nearly impossible to sit up straight and take the pounding. I even attempted at one point to lay down on the bottom of the boat, which is something anyone reading this should never do, as the pounding almost knocked me senseless. I had a growing sense that I was in serious danger, but we were doing exactly what we should and that was try to get behind the island as quickly as possible. Curiously, in the midst of this epic struggle, I saw a pod of killer whales right next to us in the frothy sea, one of the few times I have ever seen them in the Gulf so up close. Still, I was in no place or condition to enjoy them just then in any way.
After what seemed like a very long time due to the chaos, we reached the protected side of Coronado Island, where boats large and small were tucked in tightly to the sheltered shore, protected by the extinct volcanic mountain which blocked the horrendous wind. The second we got into a sheltered position against the onslaught, things immediately changed. We stayed there amongst all the pangas, fishing boats and one mega yacht owned by one of the World's wealthiest no less. Still, the Chubasco had held no consideration for anyone's station in life or their relative wealth. Nature had decided to show up that day in force, perhaps just to remind everything else of her preeminence. Or, perhaps it was just to demonstrate to me firsthand, a CHUBASCO!
https://www.sailingtotem.com/blog/chubasco-a-word-for-the-weather-wise
https://elchubascoparkcity.com/
El Chubasco - Located in Park City, Utah - Visit our Mexican Restaurant with authentic ingredients and all you can eat salsa bar.