12/07/2019
Irun- Deba
Day1-5
Camino Km’s- 70
Actual Km’s- 104
Camino Del Norte.. what a beautiful, amazing hard work of a ride.
It is far more stunning and much more difficult than the French ( traditional) Camino. The hills are BIIGGG.. the roads are long but our smiles are much much bigger!
Was lucky to meet Vera, German .. organised.. she stopped my walking 27kms to San Sebastián because she knew of a Albergue ( pilgrim hostel ) 16km away. If you want to do a trip like this, be a Vera.. not a no plan last minute Daniyella!
Places to sleep are very limited and Del Norte has gained popularity due to the crowds on the French- we have been forced to sleep in over priced and expensive accommodation when we arrive late.. ( € 38 as apposed to €5 a night)
It’s starting to resemble a cross between the greatest race and hunger games and not the humbling, soul searching and life affirming walk with like minded souls it’s meant to be.
The hospitality has been quite lacking.. the people are rude and not accommodating.. we have seen families with young children turned away. Every day the race continues and every day people are forced to walk further and further to get some accomodation. This does not happen on the French one- ever, they open churches, their houses anything. It will be interesting to see if it’s just the Basque Country side with this attitude as we have heard they want this route through their country side stopped.
Luckily the comradery amongst the pilgrims is still as strong and giving and kind as I remember. Everyone has a kind word, an apple to share or a story. Makes the bu****it well worth it but I feel this will get harder n harder to access and the popularity will only increase.
The kilometres noted above are the official ones on the walk but then others are km’s we actually walk. They love a albergue on a giant hill and a town at the bottom... increasing walking km significantly.
All part of the Camino’s charm and magic... but also part of her lesson.
@ El Camino del Norte
